Cross-Over Resistor Types Explained

In this video Nick talks us through the different cross-over resistors that we offer, and the differences between them. If you uncertain which resistors to choose as an upgrade for your hifi, or if you're not sure where the current resistors your using sit in our range then fear not, as this video should reveal all!

 

To find these resistors (in order of appearance) on our site then please check out:

  • Jantzen 5W Ceramic: here
  • Jantzen 10W Ceramic: here
  • Jantzen 20W Ceramic: here
  • Mundorf M-Resist: here
  • Jantzen 5W MOX: here
  • Jantzen 10W MOX: here
  • Mundorf M-Resist 5W MOX: here
  • Mundorf M-Resist 10W MOX: here
  • Jantzen 5W Superes: here
  • Jantzen 10W Superes: here
  • Ohmite Audio Gold: here
  • Mills Resistors: here
  • Mundorf M-Resist Supreme: here
  • Duelund Standard: here
  • PathAudio Resistors: here
  • Powertron FPR2-T218 Metal Foil: here
  • Duelund CAST Resistors: here

Some additional comments relating to this video sent in by P.C. of Reference Fidelity Components:

"You mention MOX being better than the cheaper wirewounds; bear in mind that they have a higher PPM value (thermal drift) so depending on power rating and position within a crossover circuit, they can skew the frequency response slightly as they drift with temperature increase, the lower the rating the greater the drift.  

The cheaper ceramic coated wirewound ones are really very good indeed if tolerance is within acceptable limits (this is their Achilles heel but they can be matched so buying more than needed and hand-selecting them is often cheaper than buying say 1% values in the more expensive ones), but the best, technically anyway, are surprisingly not the most expensive.  I have tested just about all types and with a very accurate test kit.  The best I use tend to be the humble Dale Vishays (10 or 12W rated for 1KHz upwards which is conservative, or higher rated if below 1KHz usage) which have a PPM of just 30PPM. Ohmite does similar ones. Pathaudio are also very good but are expensive, although their thermal drift probably won't be as low as the wire wounds their rating means they will be more than acceptable.

In listening tests, you'll not notice any difference between those, or megabucks Duelands, especially as they're not reactive like inductors or capacitors with the exception being thermal drift.

The non-inductive wirewounds are technically the best of the lot but even standard wirewounds have inductance at such low values, the results of a 0.001mH inductance (typical) are totally outside audible threshold as you know lying above the audible frequency range anyway.

Bear in mind too that ALL of the resistors made with silver lead-outs suffer from the same fate over time...hydrogen sulfide naturally in the atmosphere reacts with the lead out legs, and importantly the interface with the component (be that a cap or resistor).  The solder joints therefor corrode and eventually dry joint or fail in time on smaller, thinner wire sections.  I've lost count of the number of silver interconnects and tonearm cables I've had to repair for folk due to this happening.

I should probably offer clarification as my initial response could be read the wrong way too!  By "the lower the rating, the higher the drift" I am of course relating to power rating.  A 2w rated resistor gets very hot of course if called to dissipate more then 2W continuous or even over relatively shortish bursts.  This will cause it to retain more heat (build-up), especially where ambient temperatures are high.  In such cases, thermal drift will mean that it goes "off tolerance" much much quicker than, say, a resistor correctly rated.  It may not burn out unless grossly underrated but it's always wise to over-spec power rating for that reason (ie maintains tolerances).  I usually recommend no less than 5W rated above 1500Hz and no less than 10W beneath that value, or more depending upon how much power the resistor is being called to dissipate.  I get a lot of factory speakers in for service which use underrated resistors where telltale scorch marks are visible on the PCBs!

I am more than happy to provide my thoughts as a speaker designer/manufacturer on any of the stocked components, many of which I have used.  Give me a shout if you think that would be of value and I'd be happy to provide something."

Many thanks to P.C. for this insightful write-up, we look forward to reading more!

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